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Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail History of the Humble Pig Page 29


  Confinement farming, 230(fig.)

  American resistance to regulation of, 241

  animal welfare and, 228–231, 240–242

  British welfare study, 240

  China, 237(fig.)

  consolidation of small farms, 223–224

  contrasting pigs’ intelligence with living conditions, 248–249

  ethical issues, 233–234

  increasing meat consumption, 235–236

  manure lagoons, 225–227

  mechanism of, 214–219

  opacity of industrialized production, 221–222

  raising human awareness of, 249–250

  returning to humane practices, 243–245

  spread to developing countries, 234–235

  Conquistadors, 123–127

  Consumption of pork

  American South, 187–188

  China, 10, 114–116, 236

  decline during the Great Depression, 199

  increase in developing countries, 235–236

  meat hierarchies, 200

  social status and, 106–109, 177–178

  Cook, Harold, 14

  Cooking

  expensive-tissue hypothesis, 23–24

  trichinosis abatement, 202–204

  See also Cuisine

  Cooper, James Fenimore, 178

  Corn

  breeding fatter pigs, 208–209

  Chinese pig farming, 236–237

  confinement farming, 4

  cuisine of the American South, 186

  European cultivation, 179

  federal subsidies, 227–228

  feed-conversion rate, 158–159

  feeding hogs on a drive, 164

  Native American cultivation, 133–134

  pioneers’ hog farming, 147–148

  pork packing industry, 174–175

  soybean-supplemented feed, 211–212

  Corn Belt

  breeds used in, 159–161

  hog drives, 161–162

  hogs and cattle, 154–158

  lard-type breeds, 208–209

  meat-type breeds, 208–210

  mixed farming, 223

  pork packing industry, 168–169

  profitability of, 158–159

  See also Pork packing industry

  Corporate agriculture, 223–226, 236, 241–242

  Cortés, Hernán, 125–126

  Cowardin, James, 1–2

  Crockett, Davy, 150

  Cromwell, James, 248, 250

  Crop rotation, 113–114

  Cuba, 122–124

  Cuisine

  American South, 186

  China’s pork-based cuisine, 236

  and humoral medicine, 98–100

  medieval Europe, 84–85

  pioneer America, 149–150

  pork packing industry and, 175–179

  Roman Empire, 65–66, 68–72

  Culture

  cultural identity, 11

  Egypt and Mesopotamia, 45–46

  Native Americans’ attempt to preserve, 140–143

  Cured meats, 85–86, 113, 126, 168, 175, 201–202, 254

  Dairy farming, 111–113, 135, 140

  Dark Ages, 77–78

  Darwinism, 16

  De Soto, Hernando, 125–127, 148(fn)

  Deer, 18–19, 28, 82, 122, 133, 137, 140–143

  Defoe, Daniel, 113

  Deihl, Craig, 253

  Denbera practice, 81

  Denmark, 210, 242

  Denny’s restaurant, 252

  Developing world, confinement farming in, 234–235

  Dickens, Charles, 183

  Diet, human

  China, 115–116

  domestication of wild boars, 37–38

  expensive-tissue hypothesis, 23–24

  of the poor, 12

  global meat trade improving working class nutrition, 179–180

  hierarchies of, 10–11

  hunter-gatherers, 27–28, 30–31

  increasing demand for meat in the developing world, 235–236

  lard, 85–86

  medieval social hierarchy, 84

  Native Americans’ acquisition of pigs, 140–141

  Near East peoples’ rejection of pork, 51–52

  New World plants and animals, 119–123

  ungulates, 18–19

  See also Cuisine; Meat

  Diet, porcine

  acorn-fattened hogs, 74, 81–83, 83(fig.), 87, 102, 117, 125, 137, 138(fig.), 174

  breeding leaner pigs, 208–209

  Chinese soybean imports, 236

  corn farming in America, 154–158

  European forests, 81

  feeding pigs garbage, 203–204

  industrialized hog farming, 211–217

  medieval concerns over pork consumption, 95

  Niman Ranch, 244–245

  Roman Empire, 74–75

  small-scale pig keeping, 188

  snout use in detecting food, 21–22

  soy-supplemented corn, 214

  Dietary laws, religious, 10, 13–14, 51, 53–55

  Digestion. See Intestinal system

  Dinosaur extinction, 17–18

  Diocletian, 69

  Directions for Cookery (Leslie), 178

  Disease

  Black Death, 106–108

  global meat trade improving working-class nutrition, 179–180

  heart disease from animal fat consumption, 207–208

  Mad cow, 222

  Native Americans’ death by, 134

  New York cholera epidemic, 184

  Spaniards bringing to the Americas, 123

  Distilleries, 111–113

  Docility, breeding for, 40

  Dogs, 36–38, 59, 124

  Domesday Book, 81

  Domestic Manners of the Americans (Trollope), 167–168

  Domestication

  invention of agriculture, 27–29

  herd animals, 33–35

  versus taming, 33

  See also Agriculture

  Domestication of pigs

  Asia, 35

  Europe, 79

  Near East, 27–29, 35–41

  human-pig relationships, 40–41

  self-domestication, 25, 36

  spectrum of, 38–40

  Douglas, Mary, 55

  Drift (weight loss on a drive), 164

  Droving

  Corn Belt farmers, 156

  geese, 161

  hog droving in the American South, 1–4, 162–163, 162(fig.), 163–165

  hog droving in the Roman Empire, 163–164

  pork packing, 169

  Duroc Jersey breed, 160, 209, 216, 245

  Eating Animals (Foer), 249

  EcoFriendly Foods, 244–245, 253

  Ecological niches, 24–25, 29–30, 37–38

  Egypt, ancient, 44–46, 51

  Eisnitz, Gail, 249

  Eleazer, 61, 62(fig.)

  Eliot, George, 190

  Empress of Blandings, 189

  Enclosure movement, 111

  Engels, Friedrich, 183

  England. See Britain/England

  Environmental degradation

  Chinese pig farming, 236–237

  increasing concerns over, 222

  manure lagoons, 225–227

  Española (Greater Antilles), 120–122

  Ethical food production, 233, 252–258

  Eurasian wild boar, 25, 29, 78, 147–148

  Europe

  animal rights movement, 240

  meat-type pigs, 208–209

  Chinese swine in, 114–116

  colonization of North America, 133

  Corn Belt output, 169–170

  famine and the Black Death, 106–108

  per capita meat consumption, 177–179

  Evolution, animal, 17–22, 24–25, 33–34, 116–117. See also Adaptation, evolutionary; Domestication

  Evolution, human, 23, 29–33

  Evolutionary theory, 16, 18–19

  Expensive-tissue hypot
hesis, 23–24

  Extremadura, Spain, 125–126

  Factory conditions, 170–171

  Family, pigs as, 188–191

  Famine, 145–146, 179

  Farm Animal Welfare Council, 240

  Farrowing crates, 216–217

  Fast Food Nation (Schlosser), 222

  Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh, 248–249, 254

  Featherstonhaugh, George William, 149–150

  Feces, pigs’ consumption of, 49–51, 96, 158. See also Scavenging

  Fecundity of pigs

  benefits of, 8

  early European myths, 80

  pigs in colonial New England, 121, 139

  pigs in the New World, 125

  pioneer America, 146–147

  public nature of breeding, 182

  sexual nature of the pig, 93

  See also Breeding practices

  Fellini, Federico, 65–66

  Feral swine, 8, 137, 147–148, 148(fn), 250

  Fertility symbols, 67–68, 79–80, 93

  Fertilizer production, 96, 115–116, 176, 226, 236

  Five freedoms, 240

  Fleisher’s (butcher shop), 252

  Fleming, Peggy, 208

  Flight distance of an animal, 37–38

  Foer, Jonathan Safran, 249

  Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 227–228

  Food and Drugs Act, 199

  Food security, 48, 56, 106–107, 120–125

  Ford Motor Company, 172–173

  Forest pigs

  American pioneer culture, 149

  fatter hybrids replacing in Western America, 160–161

  hog droving, 81–82

  in colonial America, 136–137, 138(fig.)

  in medieval Europe, 78–82, 87–88

  Roman Empire, 74–76

  spread to the New World, 117

  survival after the fall of Rome, 78

  Francis of Assisi, 89–91

  Freedom Food standards, 242–243

  Galen, 98–100

  Garbage disposal units, 203

  Gaul, conquest of, 77, 80

  Geese droving, 161

  Genetic diversity, loss of, 236–237

  Gestation crates, 216–217, 240–243, 250

  Giza, pyramid complex, 43–44, 48

  Gluttony, 92–93, 100

  Goats

  Artiodactyla, 18–19

  colonial American agriculture, 136

  dairy, 8

  domestication of, 34–35, 40

  driving, 163

  European, 79–80

  intelligence, 22–23

  Near East farming, 28, 32–36, 39, 43–44, 47, 51–52

  Roman Empire, 68, 72–73

  Spanish conquest, 119–120

  Godey’s Lady’s Book, 178

  Gold and silver, 131–132

  Goths, 77

  Graham, Sylvester, 200

  Grain cultivation, 32–33, 107–108. See also Corn

  Grandin, Temple, 5, 219, 241

  Gray, Robert, 134

  Great Plains, 147

  Greater Antilles, 122

  Greece, ancient

  boars in myths, 83

  curing pork, 86

  Greek rule in the Near East, 60–64

  sex and pork, 110–111

  swine farming practices, 73

  Greek mythology: pigs as sacrificial animals, 67

  Green Acres (television program), 6

  Grocery retailers, growth of, 225

  Habitat. See Ecological niches

  Hallan Cemi, Turkey, 27–29, 35–36, 38

  Ham, 9, 65, 69, 70, 86, 109, 125, 126, 128, 175, 178, 197–198, 201–202, 246

  Hardy, Thomas, 191–192

  Harris, Thaddeus, 153–154

  Harris Papyrus, 51

  Harrison, Ruth, 238–240

  Headcheese, 176, 254–255

  Health, human

  encouraging lower meat consumption, 199–200

  medieval view of the healthiness of pork, 109

  overuse of antibiotics in farming, 227–228

  vegetable oils replacing lard, 209

  See also Disease

  Health, porcine

  antibiotics, 212–213

  confinement hogs, 221, 228–230

  traditional hog farming, 230–231

  Herbivores, 22

  Herding, 40, 82–83, 146–148

  Heritage-breed pigs, 255

  Herodotus, 48–49

  Hippocrates, 68–69

  Hitchcock, Edward, 199

  Hog calling, 163

  Hog droving. See Droving

  Hog farming

  Asian value of pigs, 10

  breeding leaner pigs, 208

  corporate agriculture and the consolidation of farms, 223–225

  decline of mixed farming, 223, 250

  ethical issues, 233–234

  in colonial America, 136–137

  industrialization, 211–215

  return to traditional methods, 234–235, 250, 252–253

  whole-animal utilization, 254–256

  See also Confinement farming

  Hog wars of New York, 181–182

  Hogging down a cornfield, 158

  Holocene era, 32

  Homesteads, 146–148

  Homo erectus, 23–24

  Homo sapiens, 29

  Honorius of Autun, 96

  Hoofed animals, 18–20, 22

  Hormel Foods, 210

  Horses, 122, 124

  Humility, 12–13

  Humors, 98–100

  Hunter-gatherers, 27–31, 34–35, 39(fig.)

  Hunting

  as mystical act, 84

  medieval warrior and hunter culture, 82–83

  pig ranching in the American South, 186

  training pigs for, 5

  Ice age, 29–32, 107–108

  Identity

  Christian release from Jewish dietary laws, 93–95

  defining people by their foods, 98

  Jewish avoidance of pork, 55, 62(fig.), 63

  Immigrant labor, 224–225

  Incest, in livestock breeding, 159

  Inquisition, Spanish, 102–103

  Intelligence

  animal welfare and pigs’ intelligence, 248–249

  expensive-tissue hypothesis, 23–24

  learning tasks, 5–6

  omnivorousness, 22–23

  pioneers’ training hogs, 148

  Toby the learned pig, 6(fig.)

  Intestinal system and digestion

  corn, 157

  expensive-tissue hypothesis, 23–24

  pigs’ adaptation and evolution, 21–23

  pigs’ diets influencing taste, 75

  wolves, 37

  Iowa Swine Producers Association, 205–206

  Iron Age, 49, 150

  Irrigation agriculture, 45

  Islam, 10, 54–55, 102–103

  Israelites, 52, 54, 57–64, 142

  Ivanhoe (Scott), 105–106

  Jamaica, 122

  Johnson, Samuel, 5

  Jonson, Ben, 110

  Judaism

  Christian release from dietary laws, 93–95

  European anti-Semitism, 100–101

  forced conversion of Muslims and Jews, 102–103

  Jesus’ account of pigs, 92

  pork prohibition, 10, 53–55, 57–64, 91

  role of pigs in European anti-Semitism, 97–98

  Roman pork feasting, 66–67

  sanitation rules, 49

  Jude the Obscure (Hardy), 191–192

  Judensau, 98

  The Jungle (Sinclair), 173–174, 195–196, 199

  Juvenal, 63

  Kaintuck (Kentucky) Hog Road, 164

  Killer pigs, 97–98

  Kom el-Hisn, Egypt, 44

  Lagoons, manure, 225–227

  Lambs, religious significance of, 91

  Land seizure, British, 134

  Lard, 86–87, 141, 176, 209, 210(fig.). See also Pork

 
; Larder, 85

  Lard-type breeds, 208–209

  Latin America. See Central America; South America

  Legal code in Gaul, 80

  Leslie, Eliza, 178

  Leviticus, Book of, 19, 54, 58, 60–61, 142

  Life-cycle housing, 215–217

  Lincoln, Abraham, 149, 163

  Linguistic history, 105–106

  Little House in the Big Woods (Wilder), 149, 191

  Lope de Vega, Félix, 103

  Lower class. See Social class

  Lust, 92–93, 100

  Luter, Joseph W., 224

  Luther, Martin, 98

  Maccabees, Books of the, 60–61, 63

  Mad cow disease, 222

  Maialino restaurant, 251

  Maimonides, 98

  Malthus, Thomas, 107

  Mammal evolution, 17–19

  Mangalitsa breed, 250

  Manure

  exploding, 226

  fertilizer, 107, 115–116, 176

  lagoons, 225–227

  Mao Zedong, 116

  Markham, Gervase, 111

  Marking territory, 238

  Martial, 70

  Martineau, Harriet, 170

  Mast, as pig food, 81, 125, 149, 175, 186

  Mather, Cotton, 142

  McGlone, John, 257

  McKissick, Casey, 254

  Meat Inspection Act, 199

  Medieval Warm Period, 107

  Merchant shipping: Chinese pigs, 117

  Mercy for Animals, 248, 250

  Mesopotamia, 45–46, 51, 54–56

  Metamorphoses (Ovid), 83

  Mexico, conquest of, 126

  Michaux, François André, 146

  Middle Ages

  civilization and culture, 82–83

  cuisine, 84–85

  curing meat, 85–86

  food security fluctuations, 106–107

  migration and evolution of pigs, 79–82

  pig trials, 96–98, 99(fig.)

  pigs in myths, 83–84

  preserving and utilizing lard, 86–87

  scavenging behavior in pigs, 94–95

  shifting attitudes towards pigs, 89–91

  Middlemarch (Eliot), 190

  Migration from the Near East to northern Europe, 78–79

  Mixed farming, 233, 250

  Model T Ford, 172–173

  Modern Meat (Schell), 222

  Murphy, Wendell, 224

  Myoglobin, 218

  Native Americans

  acquisition of pigs, 140–143

  colonial farming techniques, 135–136

  curing meat, 85

  English colonization of North America, 131–132

  European diseases killing off, 123

  resistance to British civilizing agendas, 140

  Natural (US Department of Agriculture standard), 243

  Nebraska Man, 15–16, 21(fig.)

  Neolithic era, 27–28, 37–40, 39(fig.), 68, 114–116

  Nest-building by pigs, 238–239

  New England. See Colonial New England

  New York City: hog wars, 181–184

  Niche meats, 245–246

  Niman, Bill, 243–245